Parasio Passion

In the middle of summer, we visited Yvonne, the interior designer of a beautiful apartment with a stunning roof terrace overlooking the Mediterranean Sea in Parasio (Porto Maurizio). Located in Liguria, just across the border from France (a two-hour drive from Nice). Yvonne and her adorable dog Alfredo have expert, local knowledge of this area. Here are some insider tips of Parasio and beyond…

Parasio

This area is in the heart of Porto Maurizio. It sits atop a hill and is known for its medieval layout with narrow, winding streets and alleyways, which offer a glimpse into the past. The architecture reflects a mix of medieval, baroque, and Renaissance styles. The layout of Parasio is unique, often described as resembling the shape of a turtle. This adds to its quaint and picturesque atmosphere. 

Just one staircase up from the apartment is the slow-food restaurant Osteria Dell'Olio Grosso. Alberto goes every day to the fish auction on the dock at the port of Oneglia. In the small open kitchen, Salvatore Testa and Tommaso Rognoni prepare dishes from Ligurian and Mediterranean cuisine with the catch of the day, seasonal vegetables, and homemade pasta. Try the Pumpkin puree with octopus and red shrimp. The osteria has been passionately run by Alberto Bavassano for over forty years. The rustic and welcoming restaurant is located inside an ancient oil mill. If the weather permits, it is pleasant and relaxing to sit at the tables in the square.

Thursday morning is market day and there are some wonderful stores around; fresh pasta, a fishmonger and butcher, small coffee bars, enotecas, and authentic kitchen shops. 

Porto Maurizio

Just a five-minute walk down from the apartment is fish restaurant La Ruota. A lovely spot on the boulevard with a sea view. La Ruota is beloved by locals, and for good reason. The menu is full of seafood dishes, such as oysters. spaghetti alle vongole, and linguine with lobster. A short walk along the bay of Porto Maurizio is Spiaggia d'Oro, also known as Surf Beach.  It reminds you of the French Riviera, which is about an hour's drive away, but there's a world of difference. The beach here looks much cozier and less polished than that of the French neighbors. No chic restaurants, but friendly bars where the whole village gathers. No massive yachts in the harbor, but a few charming fishing boats and a quaint sailing school where local children take sailing lessons. With the surfers walking around and hanging out at the bar, it has a very relaxed atmosphere. It's truly a place for Italians themselves. Porto Maurizio is lively all year round because everything stays open even in winter—unlike many other Italian seaside towns. 

Oneglia

A short drive from the apartment you will find Oneglia. Oneglia has a lively community atmosphere, with friendly locals and a mix of traditional and contemporary influences. The area is a great place to experience authentic Italian coastal living. Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, a large market takes place here, where the vibrant colors of the Flower Riviera come together. It's a place where villagers seamlessly mingle with tourists, each on the hunt for culinary treasures. But before you start browsing the stalls, have a coffee at Caffe Pasticceria Piccardo. In this historic café, with its green marble bar and traditional Umbertine-style decorations, guests share the latest news. The café forms the beating heart of the neighborhood and is a great place to start the day.

At the nearby market, you can find everything: fresh fish, vegetables, bread, and of course, olives. Liguria, especially this part, is known for its olives. In the past, Imperia was even the epicenter of olive oil production. Ships laden with barrels of olive oil would depart from Oneglia and Porto Maurizio to destinations all over the world.

The Oneglia market is ideal for stocking up on all sorts of goodies and enjoying a Ligurian meal with local specialties. 

Two slow-food restaurants to visit:

Trattoria Bugamatta: small, modern trattoria located behind Calata Cuneo, where you can enjoy hearty cuisine deeply rooted in western Ligurian traditions. In the spring and summer, it's possible to sit at the tables set up in the beautiful little square in front of the old Imperia courthouse, now a library. The wine list may not be extensive, but it has some interesting selections.

The dishes change with the seasons, but some options are practically always available: brandacujun, stockfish buridda, and Ligurian rabbit with roast potatoes. Depending on what's available from the garden and the nearby fish market, you should try the sautéed Panisse with Trombette zucchini and spring onions, the excellent potato gnocchi with fresh squid, the picagge with fava bean marò and the stuffed local Ligurian sardines. The desserts, homemade, are simple and delicious.

Osteria Dalla Padella Alla Brace: The osteria run by Silvia Massa and her son Andrea Richero is located in the historic center of Oneglia, on a narrow pedestrian street that once connected the arcades of Via Bonfante to the old hospital and today has become a lively open-air gathering place. Settle into the carefully furnished dining room or, when the season permits, take a seat in the small internal courtyard.

Andrea reinterprets traditional recipes with clever pairings of local ingredients. You can start with the raw sea and garden crudo, or with brandacujun paired with tapenade and candied lemon peel. Among the main courses, the Triora saffron carnaroli with raw shrimp and prescinsêua cheese is very good. The meal concludes with an outstanding example of stroscia, a dessert typical of the nearby Pietrabruna.

*Menu explanation at the end of this article

** Download the “Osteria App” to find the best slow food restaurants wherever you are in Italy

Montegrazie

Restaurant, Al Santuario, hidden in a picturesque corner opposite the little church Santuario di Nostra Signora delle Grazie. Originally a kiosk for hungry pilgrims visiting the church, it was revitalized by the current owner Roberto in the 1980s. The interior is exactly what you imagine a traditional Italian restaurant to be, with set tables and decorations on the ceiling. Be sure to come with an empty stomach because you'll be served a delicious ten-course menu. And the best part: the courses come with an unlimited wine pairing.

Laigueglia

Laigueglia is an ancient village, full of colour and splendid views as an amphitheater to the sea. Very fine sand and shallow waters make it perfect for long days by the sea, while the alleyways, small squares, and fragrant flowers accompany walks in the “carruggio” to the foot of the monumental church of San Matteo. The town of Alassio and the hill of Colla Micheri frame this jewel of great charm and beauty.  Stroll through the beautiful Baia del Sole, breathe the fresh breeze coming in from the sea, and discover the beauty of Laigueglia, Alassio, and the medieval settlements.

Windsor Hotel: Enjoy lunch at the beachside Windsor Hotel restaurant Savō. Every day the restaurant is supplied by small local producers for the strong Italian tradition in its cuisine. The lunch menu is quite informal, while the gourmet dinners provide fine dining in the evening, and coffees and aperitifs are available at the beach-level portico. You can also rent beach chairs and umbrellas. @designhotelwindsor

Cervo

Cervo is perched on a hill overlooking the Ligurian Sea, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the coastline and the surrounding countryside. It is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture. The narrow, winding streets, ancient stone buildings, and historic arches give the village a timeless charm. The most prominent landmark is the church of San Giovanni Battista: Also known as the "Church of the Corallini."  Built in the 17th century with funds from the local coral fishermen. Not to be missed is its classical music festival, the "Festival Internazionale di Musica da Camera," held annually during the summer. The festival attracts world-renowned musicians and offers concerts in the evocative setting of the Church of San Giovanni Battista.

Dolcedo

Dolcedo is a picturesque village in the Ligurian hills, known for its enchanting medieval architecture and vibrant community life. The village is characterized by its stunning stone bridges, like the Ponte dei Cavalieri di Malta, and charming piazzas surrounded by historic buildings, including the Church of San Tommaso with its very blue interior. Dolcedo's scenic setting along the Prino River, amid olive groves and vineyards, is worth a stroll along the medieval alleyways. The annual Fiera di San Tommaso festival, with traditional music and food, provides a unique cultural experience that highlights the village's rich heritage and lively spirit.

Coffee and Aperitivo

Piccardo Caffe, Oneglia

In the heart of Oneglia lies Caffe Piccardo, dating back to 1905. Enjoy your coffee in a wonderful setting, with walls adorned with black-and-white photos that tell the story of the Piccardo family history. This establishment, along with its pastry shop, is an institution in Oneglia. Address: Piazza Dante Alighieri 2, Imperia

Il Moletto, Porto Maurizio

A simple and authentic beach shack offering stunning views of both the sea and the historic town. You can rent sunbeds or enjoy a simple yet tasty lunch while watching the sunbathing locals and handsome surfers. It's also the perfect spot for an aperitivo as the beach slowly empties and the sun sets behind the horizon.

Dining

Al Santuario, Montegrazie

Stepping into this restaurant is like entering a time capsule. The restaurant is simple but full of stories. Owner Roberto serves a ten-course dinner that takes you on a true culinary journey. Address: Via Al Santuario 43, Imperia

La Ruota, Porto Maurizio

At La Ruota, you can enjoy authentic Italian seafood dishes in an idyllic setting by the quay. The highlight is the linguine all'astice (lobster pasta), but the vegetarian trofie al pesto (a local pasta with pesto) is also not to be missed. Website:laruotaimperia.com

Osteria Dell'Olio Grosso, Parasio, Porto Maurizio 

The rustic and welcoming restaurant is located inside an ancient oil mill. If the weather permits, it is pleasant and relaxing to sit at the tables in the square. highlight Pumpkin puree with octopus and red shrimp and homemade desserts. 

Trattoria Bugamatta, Oneglia

A small place with no-frills cuisine, simple but substantial, offered in an informal and modern setting. Highlight, Sautéed panissa with Trombette zucchini and spring onion, potato gnocchi with squid, Ligurian-style stuffed sardines.

Osteria Dalla Padella Alla Brace, Oneglia

A small, modern trattoria located behind Calata Cuneo, where you can enjoy hearty cuisine deeply rooted in western Ligurian traditions. Highlight, Brandacujun, carnaroli with Triora saffron with raw shrimp and prescinsêua, stroscia.

Restaurant Savō, Laigueglia

Windsor Hotel restaurant Savō. Every day the restaurant is supplied by small local producers for the strong Italian tradition in its cuisine.

Menu Explained

*brandacujun: a traditional dish from the Liguria. It is made from dried salt cod (baccalà) and potatoes, often flavored with garlic, olive oil, and cream

*Picagge with Fava Bean Marò Picagge: Picagge is a traditional Ligurian pasta, similar to tagliatelle but typically wider and thinner. It is often made with a mixture of wheat flour and sometimes chestnut flour, which gives it a unique flavor and texture. The dough is rolled out thin and cut into broad ribbons. Fava Bean Marò: Fava Bean Marò is a traditional Ligurian sauce or spread made from fava beans (also known as broad beans). It is similar to a pesto but uses fava beans as the main ingredient. The name "Marò" likely derives from the Ligurian dialect.

*Panisse is a traditional dish from the Ligurian region. It is made from chickpea flour and has a texture similar to polenta.

*Carnaroli is a premium variety of Italian rice, often referred to as the "king of risotto rice." It is highly esteemed for its exceptional cooking properties

*Stroscia is a traditional Ligurian cake, originating from the town of Pietrabruna in the Liguria. The name "stroscia" derives from the Italian word "strosciare," meaning "to break," which refers to the way the cake is broken into pieces by hand rather than cut with a knife.