On the road in Liguria

An Italian-German Love Story in the Heart of Liguria

Italian-born Simon and German-born Sandra didn’t just fall in love with each other—they also fell head over heels for the ancient hilltop village of Montegrazie in Liguria.

Together, they transformed a crumbling ruin into their dream home, and now they share the magic of Ligurian life with others.

Photography by Emma Pijnenburg | Words by Shari Wijnhoud

Sandra, an art director, and Simon, an architect, first met during the many holidays Sandra used to spend in Montegrazie with her family. It was in this medieval village, part of the municipality of Imperia, that their love story began. Years later, when they returned as a couple, they stumbled upon an abandoned house that most people would have walked away from without a second thought. It was the kind of place people call you mad for even considering.

But Sandra and Simon embraced the challenge—and they’ve never looked back. With care and vision, they turned the ruin into a beautiful home, a place where they now welcome guests to experience the slow, soulful rhythm of life in Liguria.

This time, it’s our turn to soak it all in as they take us to some of their favourite local spots—starting with sunny Porto Maurizio.

Our first stop is Porto Maurizio, the western part of Imperia, right by the harbour. We take a seat on the terrace of Sandra’s favourite restaurant, La Ruota, a relaxed spot along the seafront with a gorgeous view of the sea. Popular with locals—and for good reason—La Ruota has a menu full of delicious seafood dishes, from oysters to spaghetti alle vongole, but for Sandra, the standout is the linguine with lobster.

After a fantastic lunch, we stroll along the bay of Porto Maurizio and arrive at Spiaggia d’Oro, also known as Surf Beach. Even though the season hasn’t officially started yet, sunbathers and surfers are already out in full force. The atmosphere is reminiscent of the French Riviera, just an hour’s drive away, but with a totally different vibe.

Here, the beach feels far more laid-back and unpolished than its glamorous French counterparts. Instead of high-end restaurants, you’ll find cosy beach bars where locals gather. The harbour isn’t filled with enormous yachts, but rather charming fishing boats and a sweet little sailing school where local children take lessons. The presence of barefoot surfers mingling at the bar gives it all an easygoing, relaxed feel.

As Sandra puts it, Porto Maurizio is a place for Italians themselves—not just for tourists. That’s part of its charm. It remains lively all year round, with shops and restaurants staying open even through the winter—unlike many other Italian seaside towns that more or less shut down in the off-season.

It’s one of the many reasons Sandra and Simon love calling this place home.

Montegrazie
Late in the afternoon, we head up to Montegrazie, a tiny medieval village tucked away in the hills, just a 15-minute drive inland. There’s not much to “do” in Montegrazie—and that’s exactly what makes it so charming. The village is made up of a tangle of winding alleyways, and if you follow them uphill, you’ll eventually reach Sandra and Simon’s stunning hillside home.

It’s the kind of place where you can truly unwind. Sip a glass of red wine or get lost in a good book in their Mediterranean garden, all while the sounds of village life float gently around you—neighbours chatting in the street, birds singing, and the church bells ringing softly every hour.

About a 15-minute walk from their home, you’ll find a hidden gem of a restaurant: Al Santuario, tucked into a picturesque corner opposite the small church Santuario di Nostra Signora delle Grazie. Originally a humble kiosk feeding hungry pilgrims, it was revived in the 1980s by its current owner, Roberto. The interior is just as you’d hope from a traditional Italian trattoria: crisp tablecloths, old-world charm, and ceiling decorations.

Come hungry—you’ll be treated to a delicious ten-course tasting menu. And best of all? The courses are paired with an unlimited wine selection.

Oneglia
The next day, we visited Oneglia, the eastern part of the city of Imperia. Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, the town comes alive with a bustling market, bursting with the colours and scents of the Italian Riviera. Here, locals and visitors mingle seamlessly, all on the hunt for culinary treasures.

But before diving into the market, we start the morning like many locals do—with a coffee at Caffè Pasticceria Piccardo. This historic café, with its green marble bar and classic Umbertine-style décor, is a neighbourhood institution. Locals gather here to catch up on the latest news, and it’s the perfect spot to begin the day.

The nearby market offers everything from fresh fish and vegetables to bread and, of course, olives. Liguria—especially in this area—is known for its olives. Imperia was once a major center of olive oil production. Ships used to set sail from Oneglia and Porto Maurizio, carrying barrels of oil to ports around the world.

The market is the perfect place to stock up on local delicacies to enjoy back at your accommodation. That’s exactly what we do—returning to Simon and Sandra’s home with bags full of goodies to prepare our own Ligurian lunch. A delicious end to our journey into the sweet rhythm of life in Liguria.

From Ruin to Dream Home
Life in Liguria was the true inspiration behind Simon and Sandra’s renovation. Their mission was to stay true to the home’s spirit and the surrounding landscape. They used recycled and traditional materials, revived old Ligurian patterns and textiles, and brought in local artisans to help with the work.

The result is stunning: a traditional Ligurian home full of character and soul, yet also bright, comfortable, and fitted with all the modern touches you could need. A place that feels both authentic and effortlessly relaxing.

Imperia
Just a 15-minute drive from Simon and Sandra’s home lies the lively coastal city of Imperia. A little over a century ago, Imperia didn’t even exist—it was made up of two separate villages, Oneglia and Porto Maurizio, divided by the River Impero. In 1923, Mussolini merged them into one city, naming it after the river that once separated them.

Today, the city offers the best of both worlds—history and the sea, tradition, and modern life—making it the perfect base for discovering the beauty of Liguria.

Where to Stay

Simon and Sandra’s stunning villas in Montegrazie are everything you’d want in a dream getaway. Nestled in the hills, the house features a serene Mediterranean garden, a fully equipped kitchen, an open-plan dining room, a cosy living area with enchanting views, two bathrooms, three double bedrooms, and one single bedroom.

The villa is available to rent via Plinius Homes:

No. 042 | Ancient Townhouse reborn:  6 Guests | 3 BR | 2 BA 

No. 049 | Little Gem Liguria: 3/4 Guests | 2 BR | 1 BA 

Getting There
 Nice in about 2 hours. From Nice, it’s just an hour’s drive to Imperia.

Alternatively, fly to Genoa. From Genoa Airport, Imperia is approximately a 1 hour and 15 minute drive.

Coffee & Aperitivo
Piccardo Caffè, Oneglia
Located in the heart of Oneglia, Caffè Piccardo has been a local institution since 1905. Enjoy your espresso surrounded by black-and-white photographs telling the story of the Piccardo family. The adjoining patisserie is equally well-loved.
📍 Piazza Dante Alighieri 2, Imperia

Il Moletto, Porto Maurizio
A charming, no-frills beach shack with sweeping views over both the sea and the historic town. You can rent a sun lounger, enjoy a simple yet delicious lunch while watching locals sunbathe or surfers ride the waves. It’s also the perfect spot for a sunset aperitivo as the beach empties and the sun dips below the horizon.
🌐 ilmoletto.it

Where to Eat
Al Santuario, Montegrazie
Stepping into this restaurant is like entering a time capsule. Humble in décor but rich in stories, Al Santuario is run by Roberto, who serves a spectacular ten-course tasting menu—a true culinary journey.
📍 Via Al Santuario 43, Imperia

La Ruota, Porto Maurizio
Enjoy authentic Italian seafood dishes in a picturesque setting by the water. Their standout dish is the linguine all’astice(lobster pasta), but the vegetarian trofie al pesto—a Ligurian specialty—is equally delightful.
🌐 laruotaimperia.com

Insider Tip
Take a stroll through the historic neighbourhood around the Basilica di San Maurizio in Imperia, with its colourful alleys and charming cafés. Or explore one of the beautiful nearby villages like Cervo, Dolcedo, or Alassio—each one full of character and perfect for a day trip.