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Culture

Where a dream took root in the rocks

There are places that reward the effort it takes to reach them, where the journey becomes part of the story. This is one of those places!

High in the cliffs above Portovenere, hidden between sky and sea, sits a house you can’t reach by car. There are no roads here, just a hiking trail — steep, wild, and scented with rosemary, wild jasmine, and pine. You’ll need good shoes, a backpack, and a little grit. But the moment you arrive, you’ll feel it: the quiet magic of a dream made real.

We visited in early summer, we set off on foot, city slickers that we are, thinking it wouldn’t be that far. A few wrong turns later, slightly flustered and definitely sweaty, Roberto came to meet us on the trail. Clambering up to meet us with a big smile and stories already flowing. By the time we reached their home, we were completely enchanted.

There, waiting on the terrace, we were welcomed by the most perfect aperitivo: wine from nearby vineyards, local olives, honey, focaccia. Everything either grown on their land or sourced from neighbours. The view stretched across the Bay of Portovenere, and it felt like time just… paused.

A Wild Dream

This wild hillside life began with a dream, Roberto’s dream. Many years ago he imagined a life far from the city, surrounded by nature, rooted in something more real, more elemental. It might have sounded impossible, but Francesca and their two daughters didn’t hesitate. They embraced the dream, not just supporting it, but living it fully — building it together, day by day.

They found this land above Portovenere and began to restore it: stone by stone, tree by tree. Every wall, every path, every planting made with intention and care. Their home, now a beautifully restored farmhouse — was rebuilt using ancient Ligurian building techniques, with a deep respect for the land’s heritage. There was no easy way to bring in materials. Helicopters dropped off furniture and building materials. Tools were carried by hand. Nothing about it was convenient. But that’s the beauty of it — nothing was rushed or cut to fit. It was all built to last.

Terre di Portovenere

Their land, Terre di Portovenere, is more than a home. It’s a farm, a small ecosystem shaped by the seasons. They grow organic fruits and vegetables, harvest olives for their own oil, keep bees for honey, and even make their own limoncello. The rhythm of their life follows the land — pruning, harvesting, fermenting, preserving. It’s a way of life that many dream of, but few commit to. They do it with humility, joy, and an incredible sense of hospitality.

And then came a surprise.

The Forgotten House

While expanding their vegetable garden — and creating more space for their beloved donkey, Stragiatella — they discovered something unexpected: an old, crumbling stone house, long forgotten beneath vines and bramble. Roberto and Francesca saw potential and took on this new renovation project too. Quietly, lovingly, they restored it — not as a glossy project, but as a continuation of their story.

This is the Forgotten House, and it’s now available for others to experience. A simple, soulful retreat built with the same principles as their own home: using natural, local materials, vintage furnishings, and a deep respect for history. Inside, it’s cosy and full of character — a fireplace, stone walls, a well-equipped kitchen, and a bedroom that opens onto the wild landscape. Outside, a terrace gives you front-row seats to the Bay of Portovenere, with only the sounds of wind and birdsong to break the silence.

If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the golden hour on the terrace with a glass of their limoncello in hand. It’s the kind of moment that stays with you.

A Different Kind of Luxury

Staying here isn’t effortless — but that’s what makes it so special. You carry in your groceries, your suitcase. You hike in and out. You wake with the sun and fall asleep under the stars. And you remember how much joy there is in simplicity, in slowness, in effort rewarded.

Francesca and Roberto didn’t set out to create a rental home. They set out to live their values: to respect the land, preserve its heritage, and live in harmony with the seasons. This house, this project, is just one branch of that larger life. It’s a place where you feel not like a guest, but like you’ve been let in on a beautiful secret.

This isn’t just a story about renovation or escape. It’s about belonging. To a place, to a purpose, to a slower rhythm of life, and if you’re lucky enough to stay here, you’ll feel it too.

…And just when you think they might stop, that they might sit back and enjoy all they have created, Roberto already has another dream (stay tuned!)


Ellen Grandjean