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Perfect Italian Weekend

Perfect Italian weekend | Sicily

A perfect weekend in Italy without the limitations of time, budget, or distance. Every week we ask interesting and inspirational Italians, and Italians at heart, to take us along for a perfect, local weekend. This week, Dutch videographer Jasmijn Vonsee will take us along on her perfect weekend in Sicily. 

Jasmijn Vonsee

As a videographer, I've had the privilege of traveling a lot, flying back and forth between L.A., Bali, and Europe. While I enjoyed the adventure very much, five years ago the constant travel eventually took its toll and made me look for a place of my own to settle down at least for a few months a year.

Even though I was born and raised in The Netherlands, and still love to go there to see my loved ones, I knew it wasn't the place where I wanted to live. I have always spent a lot of time in Italy, and the idea of living there and being close to the sea and maybe even living on an island made it a very attractive goal. I focused on Sicily, with its fascinating blend of cultures, amazing local cuisine, and the feeling of an era gone by. So, I decided to go on a road trip across the island in a rented car, hoping to find my future home.

But choosing a place to live proved to be a different ball game than choosing travel destinations, so after two weeks, I found myself still searching. On the last day, I decided to just relax a bit and accept the fact that I hadn't found the perfect house yet, heading to the beach of Sciacca. That's where I met Enzo, I fell in love with his contagious smile and we have been inseparable ever since. The day after we met, I was just walking through the village which led me to a real estate office where I spotted a photograph of the most beautiful looking home with a mesmerizing sea view - a beautiful, albeit very old, house which just needed a little love. A week later, I was the very happy new owner and spent the summer renovating under the 40-degree sun, with the help of both Enzo's father and mine.
 

Now we run Studio Estate, a company that renovates beautiful old houses in Sicily, and also rents out holiday homes. One of the best things about running Studio Estate is the ability to share this island with so many others. Walking up looking over the Mediterranean, chatting with 92-year-old neighbors from a sun-flooded terrace, buying freshly baked bread delivered by an Ape right to your doorstep every morning, and gazing out over the ever-changing hues of the ocean are simple joys that make life in Sciacca magical.

The town has a unique charm, where bars still don't have wifi, neighbors look out for each other, and the art of preserving food for the year is a communal summer activity (we make so much sugo in our square every summer!)

Our days seem to kind of blend into one another so we don't really have a weekend, but when we do have our free days on Saturday and Sunday we often spend them soaking in the sun and of course, enjoying a good plate of pasta. 

 

Saturday

On Saturdays, I can't wait to get to my favorite bakery, where the scent of freshly baked bread and warm smiles greet me. This is followed by a trip to the local market for fresh farm produce where I always get the most delicious toasted almonds. A visit to my favorite second-hand clothing stand wraps up the morning. They really sell the most beautiful brands and very high-quality materials. For lunch we love to take our Fiat 500 "Toto" to Le Cantine de Gregorio in the countryside, nestled amidst olive groves and vineyards, it's a treat for all the senses. After that, we either go for a walk through the natural reserve at Capo San Marco or choose one of its many natural beaches which you can get to either by boat/kayak or by climbing a few rocks. The bright orange cliffs are amazing and the water has this beautiful turquoise color. It's an absolute paradise.

I also love to go shopping at my favorite ceramic store, Eugenio Sclafani. This is where I get most of the ceramics for our studios. After that, it is time for aperitivo and for this, we love going to Vela. They serve natural wines from Di Giovanna that are produced just outside of Sciacca and serve beautiful little dishes that make you discover even more about the rich blend of cultures of this island. 

At night Murphy's is the place to be, a place rich in history and filled with the sweetest people, where you can dance to live music. It used to be an old stable and it's the entrance to a huge palazzo. It is run by the sweetest family and it's actually the first place you should visit when coming to Sciacca as the owner Giusi will make sure you not only get to know the city but also its people.


If the weather is not so great I love to visit Fondazione Istituto di alta cultura orestiadi onlus. An impressive name but it is also an impressive sight! It has these amazing art installations from various artists and the drive up there is also astonishing. If you have time don't forget to also stop at the art site Cretto Burri.

Sunday 

So, after an evening of dancing at Murphy's, we take the Fiat once more and drive towards Palermo by taking the "Grande valle" route which is known for being one of the most beautiful routes of Sicily and it connects Sciacca with the capital. It is beautiful no matter what season. You just get lost in the landscape's beautiful colors and hills. 

The first thing we do when we arrive in Palermo is have breakfast at Cioccolateria Lorenzo, they have all these great homemade pastries and hot chocolate (during winter) and it is a stone's throw away from my favorite antique market at Piazza Marina where I get a lot of the furniture and accessories for Studio Estate. I can spend hours there and just immerse myself in all the little random things they sell. After that, it is time for lunch and of course, it's Sunday which is basically the most important lunch of the week in Italy. I love to go to either Le Angeliche and sit in their fairytale-like garden and enjoy their elegant dishes or Osteria Alivaru da Carlo Napoli, where you can experience Sicily's best flavors (and wine!). After that, we conclude with something sweet and a cup of tea at Teco (I'm still Dutch:)) and to satisfy Enzo we head over to our favorite bar Ojda for a drink, they often host Sfridomarket: a vintage market where you will also find a DJ playing great music so you can dance outside in the street!

When the sun starts setting Enzo loves to get a "panino con la milza". They sell them on every corner and it is a vegetarian's worst nightmare, but he loves it and says everybody should try it! I'm not going to tell you what it is, try it first and let me know what you think.😉

 

Jasmijn's Studios

"ESPRESSO IN THE MORNING, PASTA IN THE EVENING, OCEAN VIEWS FOR DAYS

ISN’T THIS THE LIFE YOU WERE BORN FOR?"


 Two beautifully renovated studios that can be rented together or separately (both have private entrances). Even though you can still feel the historical spirit of the hundreds of years old building, the studios were completely renovated in the Autumn of 2022 by an amazing Sicilian crew.

In total, three studios offer all the luxuries you look for on any well-deserved break. A fully equipped kitchen, comfortable beds with crispy linen, spa-like bathrooms, air conditioning in every room, and an outside space with breathtaking ocean views.

If you’re looking for a bit more privacy or are planning and visit Sicily with a big family or friend group, it’s also possible to rent both studios together. In total, the studios sleep 6 people.


Ellen Grandjean