Stella di Lemmen

 A Hidden Gem Above the Cinque Terre

If you’ve ever dreamed of finding a secluded vineyard perched above the Ligurian Sea—far from the crowds, yet deeply rooted in beauty, resilience, and authenticity—let me introduce you to Stella di Lemmen.

This isn’t the kind of place you stumble upon. You have to know about it. And even then, it takes a little effort to reach—but that’s part of what makes the experience so unforgettable.

Getting There (Is Half the Magic)

Like true city dwellers, we assumed you could drive right up to the winery. You can’t. The access to Stella di Lemmen is either from above or below, and it requires a bit of a hike. We chose to park above and enjoy lunch at nearby Telegrafo before making our way down the hillside. The hike—steep but scenic—drops you into what feels like another world. And yes, you’ll be hiking back up afterwards, but trust me: it’s worth every step.

A Vineyard With Soul

Once you arrive, you’ll understand. The land opens up into a stunning, serene terrace of vineyards surrounded by ancient olive trees, vibrant wildflowers, a thriving vegetable garden, and sweeping views of the sea. It’s hard to believe this was once a rugged, uncultivated patch of land.

We were welcomed by Lucia, the powerhouse behind it all. She’s the beating heart of Lemmen. Warm, dynamic, and full of life, she runs the vineyard with meticulous care, structure, and passion.

Fifteen years ago, she and her partner bought what was essentially a wild hillside. “That’s what we bought,” she said, pointing to a rocky slope. “I didn’t choose this—it chose me.” With no previous experience in winemaking, they took on the challenge, bringing in every building material by helicopter or monorail, and built something extraordinary. 

Lemmen’s landscape is now made up of 7,000 m² of hand-built dry-stone walls—an engineering marvel quietly shaping every terrace. These walls, made from local sandstone and stacked without any mortar, are integral to the rugged vineyards of Cinque Terre. They’re not just retaining walls, but living art: each stone meticulously placed to hold soil, channel water, and prevent erosion. Every wall, every terrace on this steep, wild slope was constructed to reclaim the ground, to make cultivation possible where none existed before. And that feat—building from nothing—is precisely what earned Cinque Terre its UNESCO World Heritage status for “harmonious interaction between people and nature”

Today, Stella di Lemmen is a vibrant, biodynamic farm, thriving against all odds.

A Lesson in Slowness

Visiting Lemmen is a lesson in rethinking convenience. There’s no popping to the store for milk—you harvest from the garden. No quick Uber home—it’s a steep hike. But that shift, from speed to intention, is part of its magic. It made me pause. Walking up and down the hill—even in the summer heat—is simply how things are done here. You adapt. You get fit. You stop thinking of it as a hassle. For us, coming from city life where everything is built around speed and convenience, it was a real shift in perspective. We are used to thinking that if something isn’t quick or easy, it’s not possible. But here, life moves differently. Slower, yes—but with more intention.

“A life in harmony with nature is a life in harmony with ourselves” ~ Lucia 

The Wine (Oh, the Wine)

We sat down for a tasting and were instantly impressed. Turns out, it wasn’t just our delight—the wines are legitimately excellent. My favorite, Astro, is a standout. Made from local grape varieties—Bosco, Vermentino, and Albarola—it’s structured, aromatic, and complex. A white wine with strength and soul.

And we’re not the only ones who think so: Astro 2022 was recently awarded 94 points by James Suckling, one of the world’s top wine critics. (For context, anything above 90 is considered outstanding; above 95 is exceptional.)

About James Suckling’s Ratings:
Suckling scores wines on a 100-point scale, based on balance, structure, complexity, and overall impression. A 94 means Astro isn’t just good—it’s world-class.

A philosophy 

Stella di Lemmen isn’t just a winery. It’s a philosophy. A story of wild land transformed by vision, courage, and love. You come for the wine, but you leave with something more: a sense of wonder, a slower heartbeat, and a reminder of what matters.

So, if you find yourself in Liguria, take the road less traveled—hike down the hill, meet Lucia, sip Astro, and stay a little longer than planned.

Visiting Info

Wine tours and tastings are by reservation only and cost €55 per person.

Drop-in tastings (glass of wine + snacks) are €10, Mon–Sat, 11:00–17:30.

Tour includes: farm walk, 3 wines, focaccia, cheese, honey, and olives. Add a glass of Sciacchetrà for €15.

Max 10 guests per tour, lasting around 1.5 hours.

Products such as wine, honey, herbs, oils, eggs, and vegetables are available for purchase on-site.

Why You Should Visit

It’s a place that stays with you. To see what has been built here—on a steep, once-abandoned hillside—is nothing short of remarkable. Every terrace, every vine, every stone wall tells a story of perseverance and vision.

It’s quiet. Removed from the bustle of the Cinque Terre trails, you arrive by foot, leaving the noise behind. What you find is a peaceful rhythm, shaped by sun, wind, and the sea below.

And yes—it’s delicious. The wines are elegant, thoughtful, and alive. Sipped in the shade of olive trees with a view over the Ligurian coast, they taste exactly like the place they come from.