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The French Edit

Nice

Nice is a city made for epicures — a beguiling mix of lively street markets, quiet side streets, and a dining scene that moves effortlessly between the everyday and the exceptional.

Start the day at one of the daily food markets, where piles of melon-round courgettes — a local speciality — sit alongside just-caught fish, laid out on bright tarpaulins. It’s busy, a little chaotic, and exactly as it should be. Have an espresso at one of the sunny terraces and let the day unfold slowly. 

The charm of Nice, for me, is found in its smaller neighbourhoods; places like the Musiciens quarter or the neighbourhood behind the old harbour, where quirky wine bars, vintage shops and charming bistros sit quietly behind the city’s more familiar landmarks like the Promenade des Anglais, the Old Town and Rue de la Libération. These well-known areas are still worth exploring, as you’ll still stumble across little gems tucked away in plain sight.

But the real magic reveals itself when you wander a little further, into the back streets, the quieter roads, where you can take in the architecture, the light, and the rhythm of everyday life. It’s here that you start to understand why Nice is sometimes called “Paris on the beach.”

Nice doesn’t try too hard, and that’s exactly why it works.

 

Some favourite restaurants

CHEZ DAVIA
📍 @chez_davia_nice
A classic French bistro, red and white checkered table cloths. Family-run, warm, and full of charm. Best for a long lunch.

 

LA MERENDA
📍 @lamerendanic 
Tiny, no-phone spot covered in art. Arrive early (around 10:30) to secure a table.

 

LES MIMOSAS DU COURS

📍@lesmimosasducours

Inspired by the 1950s that is reflected in the elegant interieur. Outside a relaxed terrace nestled in the old fisherman's quarter. Ther perfect place for long lunches, order plates of socca and pissaladiere and a crisp glass of white wine 

 

LE BISTROT DES SERRURIERS
📍 @bistrotsserruriers
A charming neo-bistro, around the corner from Hotel du Couvent 

 

LAVOMATIQUE
📍 @lavomatique.nice
Once a laundrette, now a buzzing local favourite — small plates, natural wines, and an easy, contemporary feel.

 

HÔTEL AMOUR
📍 @hotelamournice
For coffee, lunch, drinks, or dinner. Retro interiors and a lively terrace, DJ plays some tunes — plus a rooftop in summer, or have lunch at their beach club “Amour Plage” 

 

COQUILLAGES BOUCHET
📍 @coquillages_bouchet_nice
Oysters and crisp white wine by the sea — as it should be.

For Something Quick…

ROBBI SANDWICHERIE
📍 @robbi.sandwicherie
Run by two sisters. Simple, delicious sandwiches — perfect for a quick stop.

BANH MEI
📍 @banhmei
Fresh, flavourful Asian dishes in a tiny restaurant with small terrace and an excellent selection of natural wines

SHINTARO
📍 8 rue Gubernatis
This is a very good Japanese restaurant, sit at the bar and order the sushi lunch, perfection. 

21 PAYSANS
📍 @21paysans
Farm-to-table lunch spot tucked inside a local épicerie. Very fresh, very local.

Wine Bars

LA PART DES ANGES
📍 @lapartdesangesnice
Small, relaxed, full of character. Sit at one of the 1960s kitchen table, surrounded by wine bottles and order a cheese  or charcuterie plateau and some other small plates. Just skip dinner and stay here the whole evening. One of the best spots for a great evening and natural -biodynamic wines. 

LA PECHE A LA VIGNE

📍@lapechealavigne

Vins nature, fromages & charcuteries; carefully selected, often directly from small producers in Italy. A place where you sit among the shelves of a working deli, with Italian cheeses, good bread, and natural wine. There is also a little street side terrace and what often starts as an aperitivo turns into dinner without planning it.

FANFAN ET LOULOU
📍 @fanfanetloulou
A tucked-away quirky natural wine bar, with 70s vibe; fun! 

BARRIQUE

📍@barrique_nice

Cosy little wine bar wine bar in old Nice, carefully selected natural wines, relaxed atmosphere, and beautifully curated small plates.

LES OEILLETS

📍@les_oeillets_nice

A natural wine bar and cave à manger built around a constantly evolving selection of bottles, small sharing plates with a large terrace outside. The perfect place to meet up with friends for an aperitif and end up staying the whole evening. 

HÔTEL DU COUVENT
📍 @hotelducouvent
Come for the Negroni, possibly the best in town, and stay for the setting. Sit in the shade in the courtyard of this former monastery turned hotel. An oasis of peace. 

Coffee

📍Cafe Fino 

A small neighbourhood spot for excellent coffee and a fresh croissant, perfect for slow mornings.

 

Bakeries 

MAMA BAKER
📍 @mamabakernice
Excellent bread, especially their raisin bread 

BOULANGERIE DU COUVENT
📍 @boulangerieducouvent
Beautiful space, even better pastries. (come before 3pm) 

ZIELINSKA FOURNIL
📍 @zielinska_fournil
Rustic breads and good croissants.

BOULANGERIE POMPON 

📍 @pomponboulangerie

A dynamic neighbourhood bakery with delicious pastries, fresh bread, and a warm local atmosphere.

BOULANGERIE CARABACEL

📍@pains.et.patisseries.carabacel

They make the best Pan Bagnat here! Take it to the beach for a picnic; a simple and perfect sea side lunch.

Pan bagnat is a classic dish from Nice, it’s basically a Niçoise salad turned into a sandwich.

 

Markets

COURS SALEYA
Farmers’ and flower market in the heart of the old town, and on Monday the brocante — vintage linens, ceramics, and small treasures.

MARCHÉ DE LA LIBÉRATION
One of the largest markets in Nice. A local favourite for produce, cheeses, and regional specialties.

 

Shopping

MAISON PAMPILLE
📍 @maison_pampille
A nostalgic brocante with vintage homeware and timeless French pieces.

TRÉSOR PUBLICS

📍@tresorpublics
A beautifully curated concept store with homeware, objects, and lifestyle pieces. From timeless everyday essentials to unique decorative finds. All made in France 

EVRLST.INC
📍 4 rue du Lycée
Vinyls, vintage clothing, and a cool, curated atmosphere.

LA BROCANTERIE
📍 11 rue de Lépante
A hidden gem filled with antiques and characterful finds.

LA BOULISTERIE
📍 @laboulisterie
For pétanque lovers, all the gear you didn’t know you needed.

PUCES DE NICE

📍 @lespuchesdenice

A little Flea market near the harbour 

MAISON AGNOLETTI

📍 @maisonagnoliti

A small, neighborhood pasta house where fresh pasta and sauces are made with precision and care; simple fillings, perfect textures, and a focus on seasonal, handmade tradition. Nothing seems to have changed her since the 1950s

Beach

AMOUR PLAGE
The beach club of Hôtel Amour. Long lunches, rosé, striped umbrellas, and an easy, retro crowd.

BLUE BEACH
A classic on the Promenade. Comfortable sun beds, blue and white stripped umbrella's, clear water, and a simple Niçoise lunch by the sea.

 

Hiking

Sentier du Littoral: Hike from the harbour of Nice, along the coast to Villefranche-sur-mer

 

Culture

Musee Matisse

Villa Arson

MOMA

Musee du Palais Lescaris

Musee de la Photographie Charles Negre


Olivia Green