The ferry to Camogli

There are few places along the Italian Riviera that feel as magical as the stretch between Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Fruttuoso, and Camogli. The journey itself is part of the beauty — take the ferry from Santa Margherita and resist the temptation to hop off too early. Instead, sit back and simply let the spectacular panoramas unfold: the dramatic coastline, green hills tumbling into the sea, and the colorful facades of seaside villages glowing in the sun.

San Fruttuoso – A Bay Out of Time

Tucked away between Portofino and Camogli lies San Fruttuoso, a secluded cove that can only be reached by sea or by foot. If you’re up for it, there’s a scenic two-hour hike through the park, but most visitors choose the ferry — and for good reason. As the boat curves into the bay, you’re greeted by the sight of a 10th-century abbey rising almost out of the sea itself.

The Abbey of San Fruttuoso, later rebuilt by Benedictine monks in the 13th century, is an enchanting spot to spend an afternoon. Its cloisters open onto a tiny pebbled beach where fishermen still pull in their boats. Just offshore, divers can explore the famous Christ of the Abyss, a life-size bronze statue sunk 17 meters deep beneath the waves. For those who prefer their adventures above water, nearby Punta Chiappa is beloved for rock diving “the Italian way.”

If you’re staying the night, there’s one truly special option: Agririfugio Molini. Basic, yes, but also deeply memorable. Here you’ll sleep in a place unlike anywhere else on the coast, with meals prepared fresh from the garden. The food is simple but made with love, and the setting — silent hills, starry skies, and the rhythm of the sea — makes for an experience that lingers long after you leave.

When it comes to dining, San Fruttuoso doesn’t disappoint. Book a table at Ristorante da Laura, a Ligurian institution known for warm hospitality and pasta so fresh you’ll dream of it later. The trofie al pesto is non-negotiable. If Laura’s is full, head to Da Giorgio, perched just above the sea across from the ferry dock. Eating pesto pasta here while gazing at the turquoise water feels like Liguria distilled into a single moment.

During the summer months, you can rent a sun lounger from Bagni San Fruttuoso, or simply lay your towel down in the small free beach area. Space is limited, so come early — or better yet, visit in spring or autumn when the cove feels untouched. On a warm April day, it is paradise.

Onward to Camogli

From San Fruttuoso, continue by ferry to Camogli, one of Liguria’s most charming seaside towns. Its pastel houses stretch in a long curve along the beach, and the atmosphere is wonderfully relaxed compared to its glamorous neighbor Portofino.

We lunched at La Camogliese, a vintage-style trattoria built on stilts above the sand, where the wooden beams creak underfoot and you can watch beach life unfold below. The menu is simple, local, and exactly what you want after a morning by the sea.

Camogli is perfect for wandering — part fishing village, part holiday town, always full of life. Families gather on the beach, sunbathers stretch out on striped towels, and cafés buzz with chatter. Don’t miss:

Fermento and La Bossa di Mario for a drink or snack.

Revello, where locals line up for their famous focaccia.

La Cremeria del Paradiso, the place for gelato.

L’abbecedario, a gem of a shop selling handmade stationery.

Pasta Fresca Fiorella, a tiny pasta shop.

Libreria Ultima Spiaggia, a dreamy little bookshop.

Cham Ceramica, the studio of Alessandra Mozzi, for beautiful handcrafted ceramics.

Paccottiglia, Silvia Pesaro’s concept store, with handmade jute sandals, colorful plates by Ilariai, and other irresistible finds.

And when the sun begins to dip, there’s no better place for aperitivo than Bar dai Muagetti. Perched above the wild Punta Chiappa, this bar offers one of the best views in all of Liguria. Order a spritz, settle into your chair, and watch as the sun sinks into the horizon. It’s popular, so reservations are wise.

A Sweet Finale

On the return to Chiavari, make a small detour through San Rocco. Here, stop at Panificio Maccarini to taste the traditional Galletta del Marinaio, a sailor’s bread that has nourished generations of Ligurians.

And if you want to linger in Camogli a little longer, book a stay at Villa Rosmarino. This elegant guesthouse offers comfort and style with all the warmth of a home — the perfect base to soak up the Riviera at its most authentic.

This journey — from the abbey of San Fruttuoso to the colorful streets of Camogli — is a reminder of why Liguria captivates. It’s not just the beauty of the sea or the food (though both are extraordinary), but the way life here feels perfectly balanced between history, simplicity, and joy.

A trip worth taking slowly, ferry by ferry, bite by bite, sunset by sunset.