Santa Margherita Ligure: The Pearl of Tigullio

Santa Margherita Ligure may sit in the shadow of its famous neighbour Portofino, but spend even a few hours here and you’ll understand why locals simply call it Santa. It has all the Riviera allure—palm-lined promenades, pastel facades, and elegant cafés spilling onto the harbor—yet it feels more approachable, a touch less showy.

We checked into for a more contemporary stay, Villa Riviera Resort in nearby Lavagna is another special address.

The charm of Santa lies in its rhythm: locals shopping in historic botteghe, catching up over coffee, or browsing the daily paper in chic nonchalance. The marina fills with sailboats and fishing boats alike, and in the evenings everyone turns out for the passeggiata, strolling arm-in-arm as the light fades across the water.

If you only do one “cultural” thing, let it be Villa Durazzo-Centurione—a 17th-century hilltop villa with sweeping gardens and panoramic views. From here, you can also take the ferry skimming past Portofino and on to San Fruttuoso or Camogli. You don’t even need to disembark; the ride alone is a panorama of the Ligurian coastline.

Food, of course, is part of the pleasure here. For dinner, locals point you to Trattoria dei Pescatori for unfussy seafood or U Giancu just outside town—a Slow Food spot perfect for a long lunch (though it’s worth calling ahead). Aperitivo is best enjoyed along the seafront, where spritzes and salty breezes go hand in hand.

In Santa Margherita you find that perfect balance; It’s chic, but not flashy. Busier than sleepy Chiavari, but far more relaxed than glossy Portofino. Yes, the beaches are pebbly and sometimes private, and yes, prices are higher than in the lesser-known towns. But you come here for that Riviera blend: history and fishing roots, palm trees and Belle Époque hotels, locals and visitors mingling in the glow of the harbor lights.

Santa Margherita Ligure is, quite simply, the Italy you dream of: sophisticated, colorful, a little glamorous—but with its feet still firmly in the sea.

Santa Margherita Ligure is often called the Pearl of Tigullio, and once you’ve wandered its palm-fringed promenade or watched the sunset ripple across the harbor, it’s clear the title isn’t just poetic. Tucked between Rapallo and Portofino, Santa has long been a place of escape—first for wealthy Genovese silk merchants, later for the European elite, and today for anyone looking for a Riviera town that strikes a perfect balance: chic but not overdone, lively but never overwhelming.

A Town with Layers of History

Santa’s history is everywhere if you take the time to look. The 16th-century Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure still watches over the bay, once built to defend against pirates. Just above town, the 17th-century Villa Durazzo-Centurioneis perhaps its crown jewel. Originally the summer residence of noble families from Genoa, it still welcomes visitors with terraced Italian gardens, marble statues, and sweeping views across the Tigullio Gulf. Wandering through the shaded pathways feels like stepping into the past—an elegant reminder of the town’s aristocratic chapter.

Seaside Life

Unlike some Riviera towns, Santa Margherita offers easy access to the sea, though not in the form of vast sandy beaches. Instead, you’ll find small pebble coves and a series of well-kept lidos that line the bay. Some are private, polished affairs with sunbeds, umbrellas, and stylish bars; others are more relaxed, where locals swim off the rocks before heading to their favorite café. It’s this mix—upscale polish and everyday rhythm—that gives Santa its particular charm.

Eating Like a Local

Food is where Santa Margherita really shines. For seafood, Trattoria dei Pescatori is the quintessential spot. Tucked away from the main promenade, it’s unpretentious, family-run, and exactly the kind of place where the catch of the day dictates the menu. Expect simple dishes that let the Ligurian flavors sing—grilled fish, spaghetti alle vongole, and just the right bottle of local white wine.

For something completely different, make the short journey inland to U Giancu. Part restaurant, part cultural institution, it’s a Slow Food address known not just for its inventive takes on Ligurian cuisine, but also for the walls lined with comic art and illustrations collected by the owner. Eating here feels like being invited into a story—playful, deeply local, and utterly memorable.

Santa Margherita is the Riviera in perfect balance. More refined than Chiavari, less exclusive than Portofino, it captures the best of both worlds. There’s history to explore, lidos for basking, ferries that whisk you to Portofino or San Fruttuoso, and an atmosphere that somehow manages to be both elegant and laid-back.

Santa Margherita Ligure isn’t trying too hard—it doesn’t have to. It simply is what you hope the Italian Riviera will be: colorful, storied, alive, and just a little glamorous.

Restaurants 

Trattoria dei Pescatori 

 U Giancu.

Trattoria da Pino 

Superesse

hotel: Blu di Tu 

Pasta Fresca: Casazza

Cookbook: Liguria i Cucina: The Falours of Liguria by Enrica Monzani 

Recipe: https://enricamonzani.substack.com/p/an-orange-cake-and-liguria-history Orange cake 

https://www.asmallkitcheningenoa.com/santa-margherita-ligure-food-guide/