Cortina d’Ampezzo

Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites, has long been synonymous with elegance and glamour.
Journalist and Plinius co-founder Ellen Grandjean and photographer Valeria Bismar explored the hotspots in and around this Italian Alps jet-set village. [Article featured in Dutch magazine “De Smaak van Italie”]

Photography: Valeria Bismar | Text: Ellen Grandjean

Olympic Ski Resort

Cortina d’Ampezzo attracts celebrities, thanks to both the dolce vita lifestyle and its winter sports opportunities. A fun fact: in 2026, the Winter Olympics will take place here, exactly seventy years after Cortina made its international debut with the 1956 Games — the first to be broadcast live.

The village exudes an authentic atmosphere, while the stunning mountains above radiate serenity. Although Cortina is known as a winter destination, it offers breathtaking nature and excellent food all year round.

The Center of Cortina

Strolling is almost as popular as skiing. From around 3 pm, everyone wanders Corso Italia in their finest attire, passing historic houses with painted façades and elegant shops. Boutique stores and art galleries are a feast for the eyes. The medieval church of Santi Filippo e Paolo towers above the shops and houses. Nearby are the town hall and the folklore museum, Ciasa de ra Regoles, named after the local Ladin language.

Queen of the Dolomites

The area around Cortina includes a stunning nature park of over ten thousand hectares. Seven snow-capped peaks crown the landscape. Cortina is often called the Queen of the Dolomites. The dramatic rock formations of Tofane, Pomagagnon, Cristallo, Sorapiss, and Croda da Lago create a breathtaking spectacle. Among dense forests and crystal-clear streams, you’ll find mountain huts, ski slopes, and lifts. History is visible in abandoned railways and trenches from World War I.

In winter, the area is perfect for skiing. Cross-country skiers have seventy kilometers of trails north of Cortina, and guided hikes are also available. Snowshoes — or ciaspole, as they are called locally — are needed for these walks.

Skiing the Sella Ronda

Since the gondola opened in 2020, skiers from Cortina can access the famous Sella Ronda circuit directly. When snow blankets the mountains, it’s magical. Even better: with a single ski pass, you can complete the 40 km Sella Ronda loop in one day. The circuit spans four valleys: Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba, and Val di Fassa. It’s famous not only for its views and steep cliffs, but also for its efficient lift system, ensuring minimal waiting times. The region is snow-reliable, with slopes for all levels. And along the way, traditional Tyrolean dishes are served in cozy mountain huts and restaurants.

Coffee in Style

Before skiing, start your morning at Hotel de La Poste in central Cortina. This historic hotel, once a favorite of writers like Daphne du Maurier and Ernest Hemingway, has been run by the Manaigo family since 1835. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s perfect for a coffee or aperitif. The setting is elegant, with stylishly dressed guests and attentive staff in white jackets.

From the Mountains to the Kitchen

Ten minutes from Cortina, high in the mountains, are two unique restaurants: San Brite and El Brite de Larieto, run by Riccardo Gaspari and Ludovica Rubbini.

El Brite de Larieto is located in a beautiful historic farmhouse that once belonged to Riccardo’s grandparents. Riccardo spent his childhood here, tending the cows and goats. He often helped his mother prepare meals on the old stove in the charming main house. Riccardo’s future, however, seemed to lie on skis — he had a promising career as a skier in major European competitions — but his ambitions were thwarted by an injury. His wife Ludovica convinced him to use his culinary talents, and two decades ago he founded El Brite de Larieto. Here he now immerses his guests in rural life, with dishes from the local area. The menu is based on recipes passed down through generations and each dish is prepared with fresh ingredients. Inside, by the fireplace, it is incredibly cozy, and outside on the terrace, you enjoy a wide view of the imposing mountain peaks.

Thanks to the success of El Brite de Larieto, Riccardo opened a second restaurant a few years later, San Brite, which means “healthy meadow.” A name that absolutely reflects the quality of the restaurant. In the refined dishes, prepared with regional and homemade ingredients, San Brite effortlessly combines mountain traditions with modern influences. It is no coincidence that the restaurant now has a Michelin star and a Green Michelin star. The interior is elegant and minimalist, with just a few tables. A large window offers a view of the stunning Dolomites

A Classic Postcard

An absolute recommendation for an overnight stay is Alpine Chalet Gran Fodà, a beautifully located hotel right at the foot of a ski lift. The interior, with its calm and natural color palette, creates a pleasant atmosphere, and the rooms offer a breathtaking panorama. What makes this place so special is the exceptional service: from the handwritten postcard in our room to the perfectly prepared cappuccino at breakfast, and the warmth of the staff. Vincent, the manager, is always ready with fantastic recommendations, intriguing anecdotes, and expertly shaken cocktails. Local products are central. For example, our Negroni is made with Doradira, a liqueur from the Dolomites made with natural ingredients such as plums, gentian, and rosemary (and 60% less sugar!).

Museums

Lumen Museum, Brunico: Focused on mountain photography, located at 2,275 meters in the former Kronplatz cable car station.

Messner Mountain Museum, Corones: Founded by Reinhold Messner, designed by Zaha Hadid.

Dining Highlights

San Brite, Cortina: Rustic charm, innovative regional cuisine, Michelin star and green star.

El Brite de Larieto, Cortina: Cozy chalet, fireplace, panoramic views.

Rifugio Emilio Comici, Selva di Val Gardena: Fresh fish, hand-picked herbs.

AlpiNN, Brunico: Two-star Michelin, Alpine cuisine with a modern twist.

La Para, San Vigilio di Marebbe: Sunny terrace, ski-in/ski-out, family-run with traditional recipes.

Shopping

Sentier Italia: Hiking boots and friulane — ideal for rugged trails or relaxed chalet life. Available in Cortina at Marinotti 160 or online.

Piccolo Brite, San Brite: Alpine cheeses, butter, and yogurts made from natural ingredients.

Where to Stay

Alpine Chalet Gran Fodà, San Vigilio: Ski-in/ski-out, panoramic views.

Berghotel Ladinia, Corvara in Badia: Warm vintage Alpine style.

Plinius No. 085: Hidden Gem Dolomites | 10 Guests | 5 BR | 3 BA