Cortina d'Ampezzo

Cortina d’Ampezzo: elegance and glamour in the Dolomites
Journalist Ellen Grandjean and photographer Valeria Bismar discovered the hotspots in and around this jet set village of the Italian Alps.
Photography: Valeria Bismar — Text: Ellen Grandjean

Olympic ski area

Cortina d’Ampezzo has long been synonymous with elegance and glamour. It is a magnet for celebrities, especially thanks to its dolce vita lifestyle and winter sports opportunities. Fun fact: in 2026, the Olympic Winter Games will be held here, exactly seventy years after Cortina d’Ampezzo first made a name for itself worldwide with the 1956 Winter Games. It was the first time the Games were broadcast live.

The village exudes authentic charm and the stunning mountain scenery offers a serene calm. And while Cortina d’Ampezzo is best known as a winter sports destination, you can enjoy the beautiful nature and delicious food here all year round.

The center of Cortina
Strolling is almost as popular here as skiing. From around 3 p.m., everyone takes to Corso Italia in full regalia, walking among old houses with painted façades and elegant shops. You’ll find yourself amazed by the boutiques and art galleries. The medieval church of Santi Filippo e Paolo rises above the shops and houses. Near the church, you’ll find the town hall and the folklore museum. The name of the museum, Ciasa de ra Regoles, refers to the language originally spoken in this region: Ladin.

Queen of the Dolomites
Surrounding Cortina is a breathtaking nature park spanning more than ten thousand hectares. Seven snow-covered mountain peaks form a crown on the landscape. Cortina is also known as the Queen of the Dolomites. The dramatic rock formations of Tofane, Pomagagnon, Cristallo, Sorapiss and Croda da Lago create a spectacular view. Among the dense forests and crystal-clear streams, you’ll find mountain huts, ski slopes and lifts. History can be traced in the abandoned railways and trenches built during the First World War. In winter, skiing is abundant in the nature park. For cross-country skiers, seventy kilometers of trails lie north of Cortina. Guided hikes are also possible here—snowshoes, or ciaspole as they’re called in Cortina, are a must.

Skiing the Sella Ronda
Since the arrival of a new gondola in 2020, winter sports enthusiasts can access the famous Sella Ronda ski tour directly from Cortina d’Ampezzo. When the landscape is blanketed in snow, the setting is fairy-tale-like. Even better: with a single ski pass, you can ski around the Sella Massif in one day (40 km). The Sella Ronda circuit is one of the best ski areas in Europe and includes four different valleys: Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba, and Val di Fassa. It’s known not only for its stunning views over the mountain ridges and steep cliffs, but also for its highly efficient and extensive lift system, which keeps waiting times to a minimum. The region is snow-sure during the season and offers a wide range of slopes for all levels. Best of all: along the way, you can enjoy traditional Tyrolean dishes in the cozy mountain huts and restaurants.

Coffee in style
Start your morning in style at Hotel de La Poste, located in the center of Cortina d’Ampezzo. This historic hotel, once a favorite of writers like Daphne du Maurier and Ernest Hemingway, has been run by the Manaigo family since 1835 and remains a beloved spot in the village. Even if you’re not staying overnight, you can stop by for a coffee or an aperitif. The setting is delightful: surrounded by elegantly dressed ladies with gleaming jewelry, served by waiters in white jackets.

From mountains to kitchen
A ten-minute drive from Cortina d'Ampezzo, high in the mountains, you’ll find two unique restaurants: San Brite and El Brite de Larieto, both run by Riccardo Gaspari and Ludovica Rubbini. El Brite de Larieto is housed in a beautiful historic farmhouse once owned by Riccardo’s grandparents. He spent his childhood here, caring for cows and goats, and often helped his mother prepare meals on the old stove in the charming family home. Riccardo’s future once seemed destined for skiing—he had a promising career in major European competitions—but an injury forced him to shift direction. Encouraged by his wife Ludovica, he turned to his culinary talent, founding El Brite de Larieto two decades ago. Here, he immerses guests in rural life with dishes rooted in the area. The menu is based on recipes passed down through generations, all prepared with fresh ingredients. Indoors by the fireplace it’s wonderfully cozy, and outdoors on the terrace, you’re treated to sweeping views of the imposing mountain peaks.

Thanks to the success of El Brite de Larieto, Riccardo later opened a second restaurant: San Brite, meaning “healthy pasture.” A name that perfectly reflects the restaurant’s quality. In the refined dishes—made with regional and homemade ingredients—San Brite effortlessly blends Alpine traditions with modern influences. No wonder the restaurant has earned both a Michelin star and a Green Michelin Star. The interior is elegant and minimalist, with only a few tables. A large window offers a view of the stunning Dolomites.

Classic postcard
A top recommendation for lodging is Alpine Chalet Gran Fodà, a beautifully situated hotel right at the foot of a ski lift. The interior, with its calming natural color palette, creates a lovely atmosphere, and the rooms offer breathtaking panoramic views. What makes this place truly special is the exceptional service: from the handwritten postcard in our room to the perfectly made cappuccino at breakfast and the warm hospitality of the staff. Vincent, the manager, is always ready with great recommendations, intriguing stories, and expertly shaken cocktails. Local products are central here. Our Negroni, for example, was made with Doradira, a liqueur from the Dolomites based on natural ingredients like plums, gentian and rosemary (with 60% less sugar!).

Museums

Lumen Museum, Brunico
During a skiing holiday, visiting a museum might not be the first thing on your mind. Still, the Lumen Museum is truly something special. This museum, located at an altitude of 2,275 meters, is dedicated to mountain photography and showcases stunning images of the mountains through the decades. Like the AlpiNN restaurant, the Lumen Museum is housed in the old mountain station of the Kronplatz cable car.
lumenmuseum.it

Messner Mountain Museum, Corones
Next to the Lumen Museum is the Messner Mountain Museum Corones, founded by the Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner. It is a tribute to Messner’s passion for the mountains and his lifelong dedication to mountaineering. What makes the museum extra special is its futuristic architecture, designed by the world-renowned British architect Zaha Hadid.
messner-mountain-museum.it

Food

San Brite, Cortina
This Alpine restaurant is known for its rustic charm and innovative cuisine, using locally produced ingredients. They serve refined dishes with the flavors of the region. Awarded a Michelin star and a green Michelin star.
Località Alverà, sanbrite.it

El Brite de Larieto, Cortina
The older brother of San Brite is housed in a very cozy and elegant chalet, with an open fireplace and fantastic views. You can taste traditional regional flavors here and even stay overnight.
elbritedelarieto.com

Rifugio Emilio Comici, Selva di Val Gardena
Freshly caught fish from Grado and hand-picked herbs from the mountains, served on fine porcelain. Because who says a mountain hut can’t be a little decadent? Look for the sky-blue shutters or follow the sound of clinking champagne glasses and cheerful chatter.
rifugiocomici.com

AlpiNN, Brunico
This charming restaurant is located at an altitude of 2,275 meters in the Plan de Corones ski area. Two-star chef Norbert Niederkofler cooks according to Alpine traditions but with a modern approach. The result is sublime dishes full of flavor.
alpinn.it

La Para, San Vigilio di Marebbe
La Para offers a sunny panoramic terrace with ski-in ski-out access on Plan de Corones. Enjoy the familiar atmosphere, the traditional cuisine of Chef Oskar, and the breathtaking panoramic view of the Dolomites. This hotel has been run by the same family for three generations.
lapara.it

Shopping

Sentier Italia
Mountain boots and friulane were the style in the Dolomites, and Sentier Italia is the brand for both. You wear the mountain boots in rugged nature, and the velvet friulane indoors in your chalet or hotel. In Cortina d’Ampezzo, you can buy them at Marinotti 160, but they are also available online.
sentier-italia.com

Piccolo Brite
At this atmospheric cheese shop, part of San Brite, you’ll find creamy butter, cheeses, and yogurts that are entirely naturally produced. It’s the ideal place to experience the flavors of the mountains.
Località Alverà, sanbrite.it/piccolobrite

Sleeping

Alpine Chalet Gran Fodà, San Vigilio
This ski-in ski-out hotel has the perfect location to spend your days in the snow-covered mountains. You’re surrounded by the Dolomites and overlook Plan de Corones. Also ideal in summer for exploring countless hiking trails.
granfoda.it

Alpine home, Livinallongo del Col di Lana
A stunning home among the mountain peaks and just eight minutes from the famous Sella Ronda ski area. It’s one of the very rare luxury holiday homes in this part of the Dolomites where you can spend your winter or summer holiday with a large group. The Alpine home accommodates eight adults and four children and has seven bedrooms and three bathrooms.
Search for number 85 at plinius-homes.com

Berghotel Ladinia, Corvara in Badia
Both the Berghotel Ladinia and the restaurant of the same name feature a warm, vintage Alpine style. The wooden interior recalls the origins of the inn, which first opened its doors in 1930. The rooms are cozy and comfortable, and in the evening you can sit down for dishes from the authentic kitchen with a contemporary twist.
berghotelladinia.it

Hotel de la Poste, Cortina d’Ampezzo
This hotel is housed in a nineteenth-century building in the center of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The classic hotel is meticulously maintained, with comfortable rooms. The crème de la crème of the village loves to come here for a coffee or aperitivo. And with good reason…
delaposte.it