On the Road in Le Marche

Mountainous landscapes, hills, and a stunning coastline: Le Marche has something for everyone. Shari Wijnhoud and photographer Emma Peijnenburg explore this charming region from the medieval town of Treia, with the help of locals Sophie and Eleonora.

The Le Marche region in Central Italy is somewhat lesser known among tourists, but that makes it even more enjoyable to explore.
We, Shari Wijnhoud from Plinius Homes and photographer Emma Peijnenburg, are staying in the centrally located Treia. Here, we are lodged in a beautifully renovated podere (farmhouse) with a view of the medieval village. Sophie, the owner of the villa, and Eleonora, the local hostess, will take us over the next few days to undiscovered gems in the area.

Modern and Traditional

Through idyllic paths, surrounded by green meadows and spring blossoms, we approach a large oak tree. Behind it lies the renovated podere, tucked away. The gate is opened for us, and we drive onto a well-maintained property with a stunning view of Treia. Sophie and her husband bought the podere twenty years ago and had the renowned Swiss architects Markus Wespi and Jérôme de Meuron carry out the renovation. The architects kept the original exterior of the farmhouse but completely opened up the interior to create space and height. The combination of sleek design and traditional elements works perfectly here.
Where authentic Italian farmhouses are often dark and enclosed, this podere is light and open. This makes the house perfect for a relaxed, luxurious stay, while still retaining the charm of a farmhouse.

Local Favourite

On the first evening, Sophie and her family take us to their favorite restaurant to introduce us to the cuisine of Le Marche. Sophie enthusiastically talks about the culinary traditions of this region, which lies between the Adriatic coast and the Apennines. This gives you the best of both worlds: the mountains and the sea. Along the coast, you can enjoy fresh fish dishes, while in the countryside, hearty farm dishes are served, such as wild boar or pork, paired with local pecorino (sheep's cheese). Truffle is also commonly found on the menu. But unlike Tuscany and Umbria, it’s not flaunted here; it’s simply part of the tradition. Le Marche has so much to offer, yet the locals remain humble.

Sunrise

The next morning, we wake up early to admire the famous sunrise. While the rest of Le Marche is still in deep sleep, the horizon slowly turns orange, and we pause for a moment to observe a flock of sheep sleeping in the beautiful light. Once the sun is up, hostess Eleonora takes us out for an excursion. She has arranged a visit to the Santoni shoe factory in Corridonia.
Santoni, famous for its high-end shoes with orange soles, was founded in 1975 by Andrea Santoni and is now led by his son Giuseppe. The orange sole is inspired by the beautiful sunrise in Le Marche. During an extensive tour, we witness every step of the impressive production process, which is truly a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

Cooking Lesson

In the afternoon, we return to the villa, where chef Samuele has arrived. He often cooks for guests, as well as at weddings and events that Sophie and Eleonora frequently host.
Samuele, born and raised in Le Marche, is proud of the regional cuisine and local products. Today, Samuele gives us a glimpse into his kitchen with a pasta demonstration. We cook three classic dishes: spaghetti alla carbonara, tagliatelle al ragù (tomato-meat sauce), and ravioli al burro e salvia (butter and sage). With just a few ingredients, he shows us that good food is very simple—it’s all about the love for delicious products.

Mare e monte

On Tuesday morning, Eleonora and Sophie take us to the market in Treia, the highlight of the week in the village. The square fills up with locals buying fresh vegetables and exchanging the latest gossip. It’s a pleasant place to wander around and take in the sights. Eleonora shows us the historical richness of the village, and we have another cappuccino at the newly opened restaurant, Palazzo Rainaldi. Then it’s time to explore the other side of Le Marche: the coast, which is just an hour’s drive from Treia. Sophie tells us that they often visit this area in the summer and frequently organise boat trips for their guests. She shows us Baia di Portonovo, a bay just south of Ancona.
The vivid blue sea, white pebbles, and green mountains make this place stunning. On the beach, there are several eateries where you can also rent sun beds and umbrellas. We sit down to enjoy some delicious fresh fish and realise that Le Marche is wonderful both inland and along the coast.

Visit to Pope Pius VIII

Our journey continues to Cingoli, an ancient town perched on a hill. It is known as the "balcony of Le Marche" due to its breathtaking views – on clear days, you can even see Croatia in the distance. Eleonora has arranged a visit to Palazzo Castiglioni, the former home of Pope Pius VIII. The historic building offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of wealthy families from bygone times, as well as those of today – it is still owned by the same family, some of whom still live there. The house is impressive, with its beautifully furnished rooms where the rich history truly comes to life.

Last Supper

Tonight, the final activity is scheduled: dinner at an agriturismo nestled among the rolling hills. This is where you come for the best food with truffles. Eleonora, her partner, Sophie, and her family are happy to join us. Everything is brought out to ensure we experience the best of Le Marche. It’s an evening straight out of an Italian storybook: one dish after another (along with matching wines) is served. We chat about the region and Eleonora’s dream of introducing more people to the beauty of Le Marche. We are, in any case, very happy that Eleonora has taken us under her wing over the past few days, and we’re grateful to have experienced these two fantastic worlds.

Food and Drink
 

Ristorante Il Villino
A local favourite. Here, you can taste the flavourful farm-to-table cuisine of Le Marche. Contrada S. Carlo 29, Treia

Palazzo Rainaldi
A lovely spot for breakfast, lunch, or an aperitif in the historic centre of Treia. Via Lanzi 30, Treia

Ristorante Emilia
A classic at the beach of Baia di Portonovo, with stunning views and delicious dishes. Baia di Portonovo

Marcello
Next to Emilia, you'll find the restaurant Marcello, which has a charming atmosphere with its colourful chairs. You can enjoy a great meal here, and you can also rent a sunbed for a day of relaxing by the sea. Baia di Portonovo

La Sella di Pitino
An agriturismo near Treia, where they serve delightful dishes, mainly featuring truffles. Locanda Pitino, San Severino Marche
 

Things to Do
 

Outlet Shops
In the region, you’ll find fantastic outlet shops, including those of Santoni, Tod’s, and Prada.
Via delle Arti, 79, 62014 Zona Industriale (Santoni address)

Palazzo Castiglioni
The impressive home of Pope Pius VIII. Upon request, they open the palazzo for a guided tour. For more information, you can contact Eleonora, the house manager at Casa Olivi. lariclosetoyou.com

Reading Tip
Dolores Prato is a well-known Italian author. In her book There on the Square is No One, she vividly describes her lonely life in Treia, giving a detailed picture of the village at the end of the 19th century—from the surroundings to everyday life. Perfect reading material for your holiday in Treia!

Sleeping
You can, of course, stay at Sophie’s podere in Treia – available to book through Plinius Homes (NO72 on plinius.homes) – and find many more accommodations in Le Marche. From villas for groups to little gems for smaller gatherings. For a tailor-made trip, you can always email info@plinius.homes

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This article was written for the Dutch magazine De Smaak van Italië (The Taste of Italy), a high-quality publication dedicated to Italian travel, culture, and cuisine.

Plinius explores lesser-known destinations, connects with locals, and uncovers the best insider tips to experience Italy in the most authentic way.

De Smaak van Italië is a well-regarded Dutch travel magazine for Italy lovers, known for its beautifully curated content, in-depth features, and focus on quality travel experiences that go beyond the usual tourist trail.