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The Revival of the Queen of the Dolomites

The revival of the queen of the Dolomites 

Cortina d'Ampezzo, nestled in the heart of the Dolomites in the Italian Alps, has always been synonymous with elegance and glamour. It has been a magnet for celebrities, especially for skiing and la dolce vita lifestyle. Interestingly, in 2026, the Olympic Winter Games will be held here, marking 70 years since Cortina d’Ampezzo became world famous in 1956 because it was the first time the games were televised live to a global audience, marking a significant milestone in the history of sports broadcasting.

Photographer Valeria Bismar and I start our Dolomite adventure at Hotel de La Poste. This historic hotel, run by the Manaigo family since 1835, was a favourite of early 20th century writers such Daphne du Maurier and Ernest Hemingway. Even if you are not staying at this four-star hotel, this is a lovely place for a coffee or aperitif, where you are surrounded by ladies clad in fur and gold and served by waiters in their white coats.

Over the next few days, we are guided around the Dolomites by René, who is the proprietor of a stunning Alpine home. The Dolomites have clearly stolen his heart: “After years of exploring mountainous regions across different countries, we found ourselves enchanted by the unique beauty of these rugged rock masses. There's a sense of tranquillity and authenticity here that is unmatched anywhere else”.  Staying at this Historic-Modern Alpine House is a dream come true. It effortlessly combines the charm of old architecture with the comforts of modern life. Could this be the most beautiful house in the Dolomites?

 

Tradition and innovation

A 10 minute drive from Cortina d'Ampezzo, up in the mountains, are two unique restaurants San Brite and El Brite de Larieto, both are run and managed by Riccardo Gaspari and Ludovica Rubbini. El Brite de Larieto is located in a beautiful, historic farmhouse that was once owned by Riccardo's grandparents. Riccardo spent his childhood here, tending to the cows and goats. He frequently joined his mother in preparing meals on the aged stove within the charming farmhouse. Despite his promising career as a skier in major European competitions, Riccardo's aspirations were dashed by a physical injury. His wife Ludovica persuaded him to channel his culinary talent and two decades ago he established El Brite de Larieto. Visitors to the restaurant are immersed in authentic rural life, and of course with ingredients sourced fresh from the surrounding land and farm. The menu is based on recipes passed down from generation to generation. Outside on the restaurants’ terrace, there is an expansive view of the Dolomites’ peaks, and inside by the fireplace, it's incredibly cozy. 

Originating from the dairy farm where creamy butter, cheeses, and yogurt are produced entirely naturally, Piccolo Brite is a quaint cheese shop that offers these delectable products. It's the go-to place for experiencing the flavours of the mountains and nature first hand. Following the success of El Brite de Larieto , several years later, the second restaurant, San Brite, was established, earning both a Michelin star and a green Michelin star. With its exquisite dishes prepared using homemade and regional ingredients, San Brite seamlessly blends mountain traditions with modern influences. The restaurant boasts a simple, elegant, and minimalist interior, with only a few tables available. A large window offers a view of the stunning Ampezzo Dolomites. San brite literally means "healthy pasture," a name that certainly reflects the quality of the restaurant. 

 

"Here we preserve the memory and cultural heritage of the alpine lifestyle that was disappearing" — Riccardo Guaspari 

 

A Classic Postcard 

We are staying at Alpine Chalet Gran Fodà, beautifully located directly at the foot of the ski lift, with rooms offering breath-taking views. The interior, with its calm and natural color palette, creates a true mountain-top oasis. What's so special about this place is the extraordinary service: what sets this place apart is its exceptional service: from the thoughtfully handwritten postcard in our room to the flawlessly prepared cappuccino at breakfast and the warmth of the staff. Vincent, the manager, is always on hand with fantastic recommendations, intriguing anecdotes, and expertly crafted cocktails. Local products take centre stage here. Our Negroni was made with Doradira, a liqueur sourced from the Dolomites, crafted from natural ingredients like plums, gentian, and rosemary, (and 60% less sugar!). It was a delightful surprise to discover that Doradira was created by Meredith Erickson, the author of one of my beloved cookbooks, 'Alpine Cooking'.

 

Skiing Sella Ronda 

With just one ski pass, you can ski around the Sella massif in one day (40 km), which encapsulates four different valleys: Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba, and Val di Fassa. Sella Ronda Circuit is one of the best ski areas in Europe, not only because of the breath-taking views, with its imposing peaks and steep cliffs but it also has a highly efficient and extensive lift system, ensuring minimal waiting times. The region is known for its reliable snowfall and has a wide range of slopes suitable for all skill levels. Along the way, you can enjoy traditional Tyrolean cuisine at the cosy mountain huts and restaurants.

 

Rifugio Emilio Comici 

At the foot of the Sassolungo mountain Rifugio Emilio Comici. This charming and stylish mountain hut has been a magnet for Formula 1 drivers, rock stars, and European nobility since 1955, and for good reason. Servec fresh fish, S]sourced daily from Venice, in the cosy dining room. Outside are comfortable benches with sheepskins where you can enjoy a Spritz Veneziano on the sunny terrace with a beautiful view on the ski slopes. 

 

Berghotel Ladinia

Opened in 1930, Berghotel Ladinia is in one of the oldest buildings in the village of Corvara in Alta Badia, at 1,500 meters. With its charming and characterful dining room, this place would fit in a Wes Anderson film. Barman Alessio makes the best Bombardino in the Dolomites, and the food served is all seasonal and locally sourced. The hotel’s thirteen bedrooms are furnished in local Ladin chalet style with walls lined with pine wood, checkered fabrics, and creaking floorboards. 

 

Lumen Museum

While skiing in this area, a museum visit is the least likely on your mind. However, the Lumen Museum for Mountain Photography is truly something special. The museum, at an altitude of 2,275 meters, is housed in the old mountain station of the Kronplatz cable car. What makes the museum unique is the way it brings the world of mountain photography, across different eras, to life. On arriving you look through a huge shutter which serves as a projection screen “The Shutter” and allows you to admire the beautiful mountains in a unique way. 

In the same building as the Lumen Museum is three-star Michelin restaurant AlpiNN. Chef Norbert Niederkofler cooks according to the 'Cook the Mountain' philosophy, which is about using pure and natural ingredients that resonates with local mountain cuisine. It is a memorable experience to eat here at the glass-walled restaurant which hangs over a cliff with a breath-taking view. 

 

Messner Mountain Museum Corones

Next to the Lumen Museum is also the Messner Mountain Museum Corones, founded by Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner. It is a tribute to Messner's passion for the mountains and his lifelong dedication to mountaineering. He shares his stories and pays tribute to the legendary pioneers of mountaineering.  the What makes the museum extra special is the futuristic architecture, designed by world-renowned British architect Zaha Hadid. 

 

La Para

For an authentic, local experience, La Para is not to be missed. Nestled among the ski slopes, this is an ideal place for traditional Alpine cuisine. La Para uses fresh local ingredients and is famous for its Tyrolean Apfelstrudel and the Kaiserschmarrn, which actually originates from this region. This family-run restaurant emphasizes quality and tradition in every dish served, it is a delightful break on the sunny terrace. 

 

Shopping: 

The Bird Tsang: The tableware at Restaurant San Brite is stunning. It turns out it's from Amsterdam and is also available online. 

Sentier Italia:  Mountain Shoes & Friulane, is the style in the Dolomites; mountain shoes for the forest paths, and velvet friulane for the chalet or hotel. Always easy and chic. Sentier Italia is the place where you can buy these products. In Cortina d’Ampezzo, it is available at Marinotti 160 but also online. 

 

Restaurants in the article:

San Brite : Località Alverà, 32043 Cortina d'Ampezzo BL, Italy | https://www.sanbrite.it

El Brite de Larieto località Larieto, 32043 Cortina d'Ampezzo BL, Italy | https://www.elbritedelarieto.com

Rifugio Emilio Comici: Str. Plan de Gralba, 24, 39048 Selva di Val Gardena BZ, Italy | https://www.rifugiocomici.com

AlpiNNKronplatz, 39030, Brunico BZ, Italy | https://alpinn.it

La ParaStr. Sarjei 14, I-39030 San Vigilio di Marebbe, South Tyrol | https://www.lapara.it

Restaurant tips Rene: Jimmy’s Hütte, Emilio Comici, Anna Hütte in Ortisei in Val Gardena, Aurelio Hütte on Passo Giau from Colle Santa Lucia to Cortina, and the Bioc Hütte. 

 

Places to stay:

Alpine Chalet Gran Fodà: Strada Furcia, 23, 39030 S. Vigilio BZ, Italy | https://www.granfoda.it

Alpine home: Hidden Gem Dolomites : 10 Guests | 7 bedroom | 3 bathrooms | Plinius No. 084 : https://plinius-homes.com

Berghotel Ladinia:  Str. Pé de Corvara, 10, 39033 Corvara in Badia BZ, Italy | https://www.berghotelladinia.it

 

Aperitivo: 

Doradira was created by Meredith Erickson, the author of one of my beloved cookbooks, 'Alpine Cooking'. | https://www.doladira.com

Hotel La Poste: Piazza Roma 14, Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL), Italy | https://www.delaposte.it

 

Museums

Lumen Museum: Kronplatz 11, 39031 Riscone BZ, Italy | https://www.lumenmuseum.it

Messner Mountain Museum Corones: Plan de Corones, 39030 Marebbe BZ, Italy | https://www.messner-mountain-museum.it

 

 

 


Ellen Grandjean