Live Like a Local, Liguria

Simon and Sandra's Love Story with Montegrazie

Art director Sandra and architect Simon met during the many vacations Sandra spent with her family in Montegrazie (municipality of Imperia). They fell in love and, years later, when they returned together to the medieval village, they noticed an abandoned house. It was the type of house that most people would think you're crazy to buy. However, Sandra and Simon dared to take on the challenge and have never regretted it. They transformed the ruin into a dream house where they let guests enjoy the slow life in Liguria. This time, it’s our turn; they take us to their favorite spots in sunny Imperia.

Porto Maurizio

Our first stop is Porto Maurizio, the western part of the city, by the harbor. We sit on the terrace of Sandra's favorite restaurant, La Ruota. A lovely spot on the boulevard with a sea view. La Ruota is beloved by locals, and for good reason. The menu is full of seafood dishes, such as oysters and spaghetti alle vongole, but according to Sandra, the highlight is the linguine with lobster. After a fantastic lunch, we walk along the bay of Porto Maurizio and arrive at Spiaggia d'Oro, also known as Surf Beach. Although the season hasn't even started yet, people are already sunbathing and surfing. It reminds one of the French Riviera, which is about an hour's drive away, but there's a world of difference. The beach here looks much cozier and less polished than that of the French neighbors. No chic restaurants, but friendly bars where the whole village gathers. No massive yachts in the harbor, but a few charming fishing boats and a quaint sailing school where local children take sailing lessons. With the surfers walking around and hanging out at the bar, it has a very relaxed atmosphere. According to Sandra, it's truly a place for Italians themselves. Porto Maurizio is lively all year round because everything stays open even in winter—unlike many other Italian seaside towns. This is one of the reasons why Sandra and Simon love living here so much.

Montegrazie

In the late afternoon, we visit Montegrazie, which is only a short fifteen-minute drive inland, into the mountains. There's not much to find in Montegrazie, but that’s exactly what makes the tiny medieval village so charming. It mainly consists of winding streets. And if you follow them uphill, you’ll arrive at Simon and Sandra's splendid manor house. Here, you can truly relax. Enjoy a glass of red wine or read a book in the Mediterranean garden, with the sounds of the village in the background: chatting neighbors on the street, birds singing, or the church bells ringing through the village a few times an hour. About a fifteen-minute walk from the house, you'll find a gem of a restaurant, Al Santuario, hidden in a picturesque corner opposite the little church Santuario di Nostra Signora delle Grazie. Originally a kiosk for hungry pilgrims visiting the church, it was revitalized by the current owner Roberto in the 1980s. The interior is exactly what you imagine a traditional Italian restaurant to be, with set tables and decorations on the ceiling. Be sure to come with an empty stomach because you'll be served a delicious ten-course menu. And the best part: the courses come with an unlimited wine pairing.

Oneglia

The next day, we visited the eastern part of Imperia, Oneglia. Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, a large market takes place here, where the vibrant colors of the Flower Riviera come together. It's a place where villagers seamlessly mingle with tourists, each on the hunt for culinary treasures. But before we browse the stalls, we—like many locals—have a coffee at Caffe Pasticceria Piccardo. In this historic café, with its green marble bar and traditional Umbertine-style decorations, guests share the latest news. The café forms the beating heart of the neighborhood and is a great place to start the day.

At the nearby market, you can find everything: fresh fish, vegetables, bread, and of course, olives. Liguria, especially this part, is known for its olives. In the past, Imperia was even the epicenter of olive oil production. Ships laden with barrels of olive oil would depart from Oneglia and Porto Maurizio to destinations all over the world.

The Oneglia market is ideal for stocking up on all sorts of goodies and enjoying a Ligurian meal at your accommodation. We too return to Simon and Sandra's house with bags full of delicacies, where we prepare our lunch with local specialties. A perfect ending to our glimpse into the delightful Ligurian life.

From Ruin to Dream House

Daily life in Liguria was the main inspiration for Simon and Sandra when renovating their home. The house had to remain true to itself and its surroundings. They used recycled and traditional materials, old Ligurian patterns and fabrics, and enlisted local craftsmen. The end result is absolutely stunning: a traditional Ligurian house that has retained its soul, yet is also a wonderful and relaxing place to stay. The spaces are now light and comfortable, equipped with all modern conveniences.

Plinius No. 042 | Ancient Townhouse reborn | 6 Guests | 3 BR | 2 BA 

Plinius No. 049 | Little Gem Liguria | 3 Guests | 2 BR | 1 BA 

Coffee and Aperitivo

Piccardo Caffe, Oneglia

In the heart of Oneglia lies Caffe Piccardo, dating back to 1905. Enjoy your coffee in a wonderful setting, with walls adorned with black-and-white photos that tell the story of the Piccardo family history. This establishment, along with its pastry shop, is an institution in Oneglia. Address: Piazza Dante Alighieri 2, Imperia

Il Moletto, Porto Maurizio

A simple and authentic beach shack offering stunning views of both the sea and the historic town. You can rent sunbeds or enjoy a simple yet tasty lunch while watching the sunbathing locals and handsome surfers. It's also the perfect spot for an aperitivo as the beach slowly empties and the sun sets behind the horizon.

Dining

Al Santuario, Montegrazie

Stepping into this restaurant is like entering a time capsule. The restaurant is simple but full of stories. Owner Roberto serves a ten-course dinner that takes you on a true culinary journey. Address: Via Al Santuario 43, Imperia

La Ruota, Porto Maurizio

At La Ruota, you can enjoy authentic Italian seafood dishes in an idyllic setting by the quay. The highlight is the linguine all'astice (lobster pasta), but the vegetarian trofie al pesto (a local pasta with pesto) is also not to be missed. Website:laruotaimperia.com

Tip!

Take a stroll through the historic district around the Basilica di San Maurizio in Imperia, with its colorful streets and charming bars. Or visit one of the atmospheric villages in the area, such as Cervo, Dolcedo, and Alassio.

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Article written by Shari Wijnhout from Plinius for Dutch Magazine “De Smaak van Italie” @desmaakvanItalie

Photo credits: Emma Peijnenburg @emmapeijnenburg